R1200RS + R1250RS Forum
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Fri Aug 27, 2021 8:16 pm (Last edited: Fri Aug 27, 2021 8:25 pm)
Zitat von Moogus im Beitrag #15 You might keep an eye out for flickering panel lights and no starter engagement when you start your bike. That was my symptom on my 2016 RS. I have keyless ride. It was intermittent. And then a few button presses and it would start. Next many starts were normal. And then it would repeat. Finally it didn't start, and I replaced the battery with an O'Reilly's Auto Parts chain store brand called Superstart based on the Consumer Reports favorable rating of their auto batteries. I have had no problem in 18 months. My OEM battery acted like this, I would say starting spring of 2019, and I bought the bike in September 2016. It's only 11050 miles now. Also, it was so dead, that I am not sure about an carrying an auxiliary jumper pack. Maybe. But, what if such a scenario required the current from a 12V auto jump? That's what I did. The thing about load testers, and I a not pushing them, merely I was embellishing someone else's introduction of them as an idea here on this thread, is that they are very useful tools. They can in essence predict when a battery is going bad, and it's quite conceivable you could stave off a stranded-jumpstart scenario by utilizing one to make a new battery purchase decision. But, I don't know if a viable, suited one exists for our bikes. Something to look for. |
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Sat Aug 28, 2021 3:10 pm (Last edited: Sat Aug 28, 2021 3:10 pm)
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Speaking of battery load testers, I had two recent battery issues which made me curious about the true health of the old batteries. One, of course, was the 6-yo part-size Yuasa from the R1200RS, the other is an 11-yo Yuasa 12V AGM from my wife's Prius. You know the story on the RS battery replacement, the Prius 12V battery was replaced after a no-start event with a voltage reading of under 1V. Based on available evidence........someone didn't turn off the dome light. But, after a few hours on a 10A charger, the old Prius battery was indicated to be fully charged. Old Forum Orphan |
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Zitat von Mr. 36654 im Beitrag #36 I bought one of those "testers". I think it might make a good electric grill or toaster oven. I used it one time and when it started to smoke I decided to retire it.
Current motorcycle collection: 2002 Yamaha FZ1; 2020 KTM 390 Duke; 2011 Royal Enfield Bullet 500; 2009 BMW F650GS; 2016 BMW R1200RS; 2018 Zero S 16.6 kWh
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Zitat von Richard230 im Beitrag #37Zitat von Mr. 36654 im Beitrag #36 Richard, Don't be a wuss. Just hold the switch in the "on" position a bit longer...... You'll get flames!!
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Zitat von Mr. 36654 im Beitrag #38 Yeah This old "toaster" load testers are fun....often smelly too. But they to offer a benefit. Each battery is a multi-cell device. Often only on cell goes bad, so under light or no load the Good cells mask the failed cell. The purpose of the load test is to stress all the cells, making the bad on show up..ie a voltage drop that can be seen. They do load the battery...and the size of the load is some what important. You need a bigger load to a car battery, or even a bigger load for a diesel tractor battery. Our motorcycles don't need such big load...so maybe the Harbor freight cheapie is not so bad. I'm not saying these are the best testers but this old tech does serve a purpose...that is why a still keep one around PS I preemptively put a new battery in my 2016 RS this spring. |
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Zitat von Vtbob im Beitrag #39Zitat von Mr. 36654 im Beitrag #38 Bob, Did you test the old one? My old battery tested at the low end of the good range. I also tested the 11-yo 325CCA AGM battery from my wife's Prius. I got the same result as for my 5-yo R1200RS battery. So, now I have these two marginally good AGM batteries in my garage. I'm thinking of making a power cord for my old Dewalt 12V drill driver to avoid buying replacement battery packs..
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Sun Oct 17, 2021 1:49 pm (Last edited: Sun Oct 17, 2021 1:56 pm)
Zitat von Mr. 36654 im Beitrag #40 No I did not test the old battery. Over the years I've gotten lazy and maybe a bit better informed. Batteries have several failure modes. A clear failed cell was more common when we did not have sealed batteries and they were more fragile to physical damage. The load test helped a lot of the time back then. Now we have sealed batteries that are physically more robust I don't want to pretend to be expert on the variations of lead acid batteries, but I believe the primary aging function is sulfation of the interior plates. This substantially reduces the current storage and can be loosely implied , but not directly measured, by a high impedance voltage measurement. ie output voltage is marginally reduced. Also remember a 12v battery has 6 cells in series so if one cell output only 8 volt and the other are like new, the out put voltage reading will be 11.3 volts. There are certainly more sophisticated way to test batteries, but these testers would be complex and expensive...not worth owning for a private user..and even most shops . Selling new batteries is more profitable and less complicated. I've caved into this reality and buy new batteries preemptively for my vehicles at approximately 5 years I like the idea of making a power cord for your Dewalt....just like but much cheaper than buying one of the fancy new "booster/jump start" batteries. Love it. |
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Zitat von Vtbob im Beitrag #41Zitat von Mr. 36654 im Beitrag #40 I made the power cord yesterday. Gutted a dead battery pack and soldered 14/2 landscape wire to the contacts (in the battery pack). The landscape wire exits the gutted battery pack thru a small hole (2 3/16" holes with a 3/16" offset). The same "pack" works with my 12V and 9.6V Dewalt tools. The only downside to this whole mini-adventure in "shade tree electronics" was the 67-cents per foot price on the 14/2 landscape wire. That was more money than I wanted to spend to avoid spending money of replacement batteries and repurposing my old MC and car batteries........ But, I now have a light drill driver with really long battery life for assembly jobs in the woodshop.
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The promised sunny day happened yesterday - pretty cool though - so I dragged the old banger out of the garage after 5 months silent hibernation for my 1st ride of the year.
Carpe Diem!
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Zitat von Boxerboy55 im Beitrag #43 The last time my unit pulled that stunt I de-mounted and re-mounted it. Fixed it! Frank
2017 R1200RS- 44,000 mi. 4 yrs.
2003 R1100S Boxer Cup Replika #6/200 1985 K100/1100RS- 327,000 mi. 36 yrs. 2016 R1200RS- 28,322 mi. 18 mo. (gone) 2011 R1200RT- 30,000 mi. 2 yr. (gone) 2005 R1200ST- 58,000 mi. 8 yr. 3rd deer killed it. 1999 R1100S- 15,000 mi. 2 yr. (gone) 1996 Ducati 900SS/SP- 89,000 mi. 12 yr. (gone) 500,000+ BMW miles |
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I am SO pissed off with batteries on my RS - just fitted my third (a 2017 bike, 22,000 miles).
KC100->CB100N->CB250RS--------->DL650AL2->R1200RS
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