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Poorly R1200RS - startup routine failing
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Tue May 12, 2020 6:35 pm (Last edited: Tue May 12, 2020 6:47 pm)
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After hearing the latest changes to the Covid-19 lockdown protocol in the UK, I was really looking forward to taking my R1200RS out for a run this week, for the first time in ages, so have just been out to the garage to give it a once-over. Sadly, the bike's not well at all though. When I tried to start it up (it's keyless) I got all manner of strange warning icons flashing at me on the dash, which I've never even seen before - the manual is suggestive of lights/ESA faults but I reckon the fact that they are flashing vigorously, accompanied by a weird whirring noise, means its a more general, serious fault. KC100->CB100N->CB250RS--------->DL650AL2->R1200RS |
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Do you have jumper cables? The cheapest, quickest, diagnostic would be to put jumper cables, turn it on, and try to start it. Batteries are like cats, they like to play with the minds of their owners. Even with the Optimate.
'16 R1200 RS
'19 S1000 XR |
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Tue May 12, 2020 6:58 pm (Last edited: Tue May 12, 2020 7:12 pm)
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Nice video. It's nothing you did with the charger. Most of us have hooked chargers directly to the battery. Of course, when I first used my Optimate for an identical Yuasa battery in my household back up generator, it didn't work properly..., so there's that. Wessie's probably right, again. “A good man always knows his limitations.” |
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Zitat von wessie im Beitrag #2Hmm, well interestingly it's at only 11.4V. Knackered enough to cause my symptoms? The 'low battery' icon seems to be one of the few not actually lit up! In fact, the reason I bought the Optimate this year was that I'd allowed the battery to self-discharge for a few weeks over winter; I can't remember how low it had got but it seemed to be fine again after 'Optimate therapy' and I'd been out for quite a lot of rides in the weeks leading up to lockdown, no problems. Anyway, will leave the battery disconnected overnight and measure it again tomorrow. Zitat von runnerhiker im Beitrag #3Yes indeed - so are you suggesting hooking it up to my car battery would be safe/useful?
KC100->CB100N->CB250RS--------->DL650AL2->R1200RS
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Tue May 12, 2020 7:26 pm (Last edited: Tue May 12, 2020 7:29 pm)
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Zitat von Freddyfruitbat im Beitrag #5Zitat von wessie im Beitrag #2Hmm, well interestingly it's at only 11.4V. Knackered enough to cause my symptoms? The 'low battery' icon seems to be one of the few not actually lit up! In fact, the reason I bought the Optimate this year was that I'd allowed the battery to self-discharge for a few weeks over winter; I can't remember how low it had got but it seemed to be fine again after 'Optimate therapy' and I'd been out for quite a lot of rides in the weeks leading up to lockdown, no problems. Do the checks I have stated first. If the battery is flat then get the jump leads out. If the battery is not apparently flat then try a hard reset "switch it off then on again" by disconnecting a battery lead. If this does not work, then your battery might have the right voltage but not be able to produce enough amps to get the whole system going i.e. energise the ABS pump and fuel pump resulting in an ECU brain fart due to inconsistent power. Again, get the jump leads out. One word of advice if using jump leads, do not have the car engine running. You do not want the car's alternator sending a zillion amps at 14.8V down the jump leads as the regulator on the bike might get a bit warm. As long as the engine is not running then you will just have a bit of battery equalisation going on and soon find out if the fault on the bike is a goosed battery or some other thing. I didn't notice the bit typed in the middle of the quote before replying :P |
Tue May 12, 2020 7:45 pm (Last edited: Tue May 12, 2020 7:46 pm)
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Just hook up the jumper cables to the car battery, maybe do what Wessie said and don't run the car.
runnerhiker
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'16 R1200 RS |
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Sounds like maybe the Optimate has been ineffective, and has maybe misidentified the battery type, so allowing it to go flat.
Fred
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Too much battery conditioning can kill a battery in my experience. I turn mine on for a couple of days at a time and then give it a rest for a week. |
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Zitat von fred_jb im Beitrag #8 Why does this sound like an ill concealed attempt to sell BMW canbus chargers? My battery is now five years old and still going strong despite being charged with an old Optimate connected via a pigtail. Like Sanemancured I only leave it connected overnight and disconnect when charged. |
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Zitat von fred_jb im Beitrag #8 Actually, BMW do not say anything like that. They say that if the charger is not compatible with the BMW electronics then charge direct to the battery as the OP has done. I have just checked thePDF of my manual. If you read the Optimate 4 instructions it does a load test and if it detects the battery is in circuit it limits the algorithm to charge only. The Optimate 4 is compatible with all lead acid types including AGM as fitted in the factory by BMW. I use one on all of my vehicles, including my car in the current lockdown. Whilst the charger could be faulty, this is unlikely. A knackered battery is more likely. |
Tue May 12, 2020 11:36 pm (Last edited: Tue May 12, 2020 11:37 pm)
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Well I haven't checked my RS manual but I'm sure I remember the GS manual saying that you should disconnect the battery from the bike if the charger needs to be connected directly to the battery, to avoid any possibility of damage to the bike's electronics.
Fred
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I’m another one with a 5 year battery that hibernates every winter permanently connected to a charger. Directly.
Carpe Diem!
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In case it helps ... |
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