Warranty stuff » It just dies in the ar@e

My 1250 had been at the dealer to chase a problem.

When accellerating moderately, maybe with a tad of urgency, the shift into 2nd followed by rolling on the throttle has the engine die.

The loss of power is so abrupt, the front end dives and I am thrown forward onto my thumbs. Power then cuts back in and the bike picks up. Then I shft into 3rd, and the same thing happens. I have had it happen into 4th as well.

BMW tells me it is "normal". They confirm my findings and kept the bike (I am currently disabled) to match it against another new RS.

And "Sir, they all do that," is the current status.

The solution "Just give it more gas" "Give it some Welly".

It is guessed Shift Cam is causing the issue.

Anyone else have this issue?

Give more Gas? Are they implying you water your Fosters down with lemonade?.
I can't remember but do you have the gsap fitted to your new bike?

And "Sir, they all do that," is the current status.

That's a design feature I would not want.

"Sir, they all do that" is the worst possible thing to hear from a dealership. What I hear is "We don't know, and aren't willing to investigate any further".
Apologies for the pessimism. I've heard that phrase too many times from auto service shops, over the years. Hopefully they will discover the problem and fix it. Or you'll find a competent alternate dealer

I am not sure how old you are Aussie Import but far too often dealers have given me the same crap answer. When will they learn that although I am 73 I have been riding bikes for 57 years and like most of you I know how a bike works and how to ride it. I think it will be blindingly obvious to the forum that your bike has a fault-a potentially dangerous one at that.

Is this happening using the quickshifter or when changing up normally using the clutch?

When you say the gearshift is followed by rolling on the throttle then I assume you are using the clutch as you are supposed to keep the throttle fairly wide open for clutchless upshifts and not supposed to roll off and on the throttle. If you don't keep the throttle open during clutchless upshifts you will confuse the system, which could cause the engine to cut out for much longer than the fraction of a second it is supposed to cut out to reduce torque on the box during a clutchless change.

If it happens when using the clutch, do the engine revs rise when you re-open the throttle but without imparting any forward motion? If this is the case it could be related to the clutch not fully engaging as soon as the clutch lever is released. I have seen a similar thing but on downshifts where the clutch doesn't engage immediately meaning you lose engine braking which can be a bit alarming when entering a downhill hairpin bend, but have only had this in hot conditions. This could be a clutch actuation issue, maybe related to the slipper clutch mechanism.

If the engines revs don't rise despite opening the throttle then it may be a throttle position sensor problem, but if this were the case you would expect it to happen on every gear change not just into 2nd and 3rd, so may still be related to a fault in the quickshifter with it getting involved when it shouldn't - so possibly a fault in the clutch lever position sensor failing to tell the system that you are using the clutch.

Just to add - I don't see any way it can be ShiftCam related. The cam has to be either be on the low lift or high lift position, so even if faulty and not shifting, you will not lose all power, though if stuck in the high lift position it may be a little reluctant at low revs.

Aussie,

They don’t all do that, mine (1250) doesn’t for a start.
My dealer mentioned a software update that I will get done at the first service. I think it addresses some throttle issues. (Mine has a bit of a surge when you come off the throttle, which is something that my first 2015RS had initially and my second 2017 did not) find out if the update has been applied and you have the latest software.

If that is all OK, I don’t think a throttle sensor would cut the engine out, and I can’t see it being the shift cam. The quick shifter is the most likely simple culprit, but with so many electronics on the RS it’s probably a sensor somewhere that’s out of whack.

Good luck getting it sorted, but don’t accept the dealer bollocks that they all do that.

Thanks for all the suggestions.

My RS is fully optioned with the GASP.

The problems arise with clutch use on moderate accelleration in speed limited areas.

On engaging the next highest gear it pulls ok for a second or less, and it then dies, no pull. No engine note. It then awakes and resumes acceleration.

I am 70 this year, and have been a daily rider for 52 years. Even though I am not a farmer, I can smell bullshit ok.

Apart from the hesitation , my RS does have the slight closed throttle surge thst my 2015 RS did not have. Maybe they are connected?

My guess is the dealer techs are not motivated to find the fault, and it will be something only a real tuning wizzard could find.

Sounds to me like BMW was using Boeing computer programmers to program the 1250's FI computer.

I wouldn't be surprised if they have already found a glitch and fixed it. Or perhaps your bike's FI computer had a power interruption while it's firmware was being installed at the factory. Time for a firmware re-flash, I would think.

Zitat von duccrazydave im Beitrag #4

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"Sir, they all do that" is the worst possible thing to hear from a dealership.

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Zitat von Richard230 im Beitrag #10

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Sounds to me like BMW was using Boeing computer programmers to program the 1250's FI computer.

I wouldn't be surprised if they have already found a glitch and fixed it. Or perhaps your bike's FI computer had a power interruption while it's firmware was being installed at the factory. Time for a firmware re-flash, I would think.

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Well if they all do that, ask them to take out their demo bike and try the same thing

Did the dealer read out the faultcodes when connected to the BMW computer?

And has been something changed to the bike when your problem started, like a service or something? Maybe a ride by wire problem?

Check the battery terminals are not loose... i had a simular thing on a Yam 600. The acceleration caused the g forces to move the battery just enough to momentarily break the contact with the lead.... the sudden deceleration caused it to reconnect.

worth checking.