RE: Peg lowering - 2

Thanks for the compliment. The pegs slid rearward about the thickness of the 8mm mounting bolt by my choosing. The plate could be built to locate the pegs forward or straight down I suppose. There is no noticeable differences in the wrist pressure that I can pick up on. In my experience, true rearsets move the pegs rearward and upward and I certainly wasn't going for that with my bad knees.

Spooky, small world

When I'm down I stay the New Inn, Leven (last time was for the Long Riston Archery Festival in June, on the Tiger 800, which is making way for the RS) and they had a beer festival on.... pig in... me and a pal got served there at 15, many years ago.

Some great biking roads over the Wolds to Malton, and the chippy at Wetwang, must plan a trip for Spring.

Cheers.

That's great, along the lines of what I was thinking, did the same thing to a Triumph Daytona 955i I had a while ago.

What did the mod to the centre stand entail?

Thanks.

The Center Stand mod consisted of carefully cutting off the bracket that is the stop for the top of the travel. I then removed a large amount of that bracket to make it shorter and relocated it from the top of the center stand to the side of the center stand. I needed to move this bracket outward because the bracket that relocated my pegs was 1/4" thick and the footpeg bracket has the stop integrated into it that the center stand rests against when in the up position. Lastly, I reduced the thickness of the bump stop rubber to about 50% of what it was new. This type of mod is difficult to explain so I included a photo to try to help clear up any confusion that I may have created in trying to write this down.

IMG_3874 color lightened.JPG - Bild entfernt (keine Rechte)

I think Im going to pull the trigger on the SW Motec lowering pegs and try them out. Now that its colder out and Im wearing my thicker overpants(over my jeans), Im getting too much material bunched up behind my knees making it less than ideal for comfortable longer rides.

Zitat von CK_AZ_SB im Beitrag #19

---

The Center Stand mod consisted of carefully cutting off the bracket that is the stop for the top of the travel. I then removed a large amount of that bracket to make it shorter and relocated it from the top of the center stand to the side of the center stand. I needed to move this bracket outward because the bracket that relocated my pegs was 1/4" thick and the footpeg bracket has the stop integrated into it that the center stand rests against when in the up position. Lastly, I reduced the thickness of the bump stop rubber to about 50% of what it was new. This type of mod is difficult to explain so I included a photo to try to help clear up any confusion that I may have created in trying to write this down.

---

Your idea is a good one except that the upper limit of the center stand's resting position is actually the exhaust tubing that travels under the bike. The stop that I created allowed me to get the stand up very close to the exhaust but not come in contact with it or get me into a more elaborate modification. I'm headed out for a ride shortly and I'll poke my head under the bike to make sure I am remembering all of this correctly. I would sure think if my bike were stock your idea would gain a few degrees of angle in the resting position, but trimming down the rubber bump stop might be a lot easier and just as effective due to the exhaust interference that results.
(12-30-19, Confirmed: The upper limit of the center stand is the point where it contacts the exhaust system)

Only had a few hundred miles on the RS due the virus thingy that's going around, so not sure if I will need lowering or not yet as I have only done 100 miles in one go and that was fine.

I did however come across a second hand LHS foot-peg assembly for sale at a reasonable price with linkage attached....and bought it....on a bit of a whim....

I intend to make some lowering plates as per previous posts, however instead of modifying the exhaust, the idea is to modify the second hand foot-peg assembly, so that the centre stand stop is moved up to compensate for the drop in the peg height. It will either be a cut and shut, or grind smooth and add a bit to the rear.

This approach also means that in the future the bike can be returned to standard.

Its going to be a while till I get round to this, but I will post again on how it goes.

lh footpeg overmark.png - Bild entfernt (keine Rechte)

It'll be interesting to see how the hanger takes to being welded. It might be easier to cut off the bottom part and replace with a bolted on piece off stainless angle. I've got a drill press and loads of taps and dies if you need a hand with it.

Zitat von Tony101 im Beitrag #24

---

It'll be interesting to see how the hanger takes to being welded. It might be easier to cut off the bottom part and replace with a bolted on piece off stainless angle. I've got a drill press and loads of taps and dies if you need a hand with it.

---

Zitat von CK_AZ_SB im Beitrag #14

---

Guys, I just built my own plates and was able to drop the pegs 19mm on both sides. The brake retains its factory orientation and I simply had to adjust the shift rod to accommodate for the drop in peg height. I couldn't find these parts off the shelf but I did find a similar product made for the earlier GS models which made me think I was onto the right idea.





I should also add that by going this route the bump stop for your center stand moves downward with the peg assembly leaving the center stand lower than the original location when not in use. I went ahead and modified my center stand's bump stop location to allow the stand to be back up where the factory location landed it when not in use.

---

If anyone is looking for this part, as pictured in this project, I have one. I'm in Minnesota USA. It's brand new.|addpics|r84-g-225d.jpg-invaddpicsinvv|/addpics|

Zitat von Elmer J Fudd im Beitrag #26

---

Zitat von CK_AZ_SB im Beitrag #14

---

Guys, I just built my own plates and was able to drop the pegs 19mm on both sides. The brake retains its factory orientation and I simply had to adjust the shift rod to accommodate for the drop in peg height. I couldn't find these parts off the shelf but I did find a similar product made for the earlier GS models which made me think I was onto the right idea.





I should also add that by going this route the bump stop for your center stand moves downward with the peg assembly leaving the center stand lower than the original location when not in use. I went ahead and modified my center stand's bump stop location to allow the stand to be back up where the factory location landed it when not in use.

---

Hi, getting some momentum of thought here, can you (or anyone else who has done this / fitted a kit) please let me know what thickness the plates are and are they S/S or Aluminium / alloy?

Thanks

---

My lowering plates were made from 1/4" thick, 6061 aluminum. No issues with the pegs or brackets after many months of use at this point. I am 200lbs and stand up on the pegs without concern. There is no perceptible flex or fatigue in the material that I can feel or see.

A little update on progress.

The LHS footpeg has arrived and I made some plywood test plates for my preferred relocation (20mm down and 5mm forward) only to find that this clashes with the sidestand and that there is not quite enough room for a nut at the back of the bottom bolt to the new plate. I can now see why the kits avoid using plates on this side.

The latter can be fixed by recessing the nut into the plate slightly, the former is more of an issue.

Moving the assembly so that it is straight down by 20mm will be an OK fit (for me), but would still clash. The angle grinder is therefore required to remove part of the sidestand baseplate in the location off the foul and I may also add a bit of weld to the stop to keep it down by a few mm.

I now have a second hand sidestand on order from your favourite online auction site, as everything must be reversible back to standard.

The centre-stand stop will be formed out of a piece of bent aluminium bolted to the back of the footpeg plate as there is enough room and thickness of material to drill a hole and tap a thread. The idea of cutting and welding up the bracket has been dismissed as too much work (which, I admit, is slightly ironic).