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Refitting the rear wheel...
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Zitat von ABS im Beitrag #15 Nice but in my application there is no need for tightening or slackening torque greater than finger and thumb would provide. AAMOF, if I could put some knurling on the shaft of the cut bolt that would be better.  YMMV.
Regards,
Grumpy Goat RSWasserboxer.com |
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Hacksaw!!?? Yes, I have one of them, and for Christmas even bought some new blades!! BUT, no one should use a hacksaw these days, that is what angle grinders are for!!
I would like to apologize to anyone I have NOT offended. Please be patient. I will get to you shortly.
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GG - there is no intention to tighten the bolt and no mention of torquing before hanging the wheel off; the slot is to ensure you can clearly remove it if required (because wheel movement will transfer torqueing to the bolt) You also need to ensure sufficent unthreaded length so that the bore of the wheel isn't damaged by thread serrations. All I can say is that it's a working model, appreciate my quals are in keeping humans going, not machines and I have no idea how to make a video! |
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Wed Jan 16, 2019 10:23 am (Last edited: Wed Jan 16, 2019 10:25 am)
Zitat von Tony101 im Beitrag #20 Tony's post is spot on. The OEM fiche states that the bolts are M10X1,25X40. That 1.25 fine pitch is very important. Putting a standard M10 1.5 pitch into the hub could end in tears. These cap screws are not exotic and are readily available from fastener suppliers. |
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Wed Jan 16, 2019 2:09 pm (Last edited: Wed Jan 16, 2019 2:21 pm)
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Zitat von ABS im Beitrag #18 Hehehe ... No one said anything about tightening as such (maybe I should have said "clockwise torque") and not all applied torque is with a goal to tighten. I was using it in the engineering sense, as any applied twisting force - including that between thumb and forefinger - is applied torque, however small.  Yes, you simply insert the tool into the hole twist it a few times to engage sufficient threads to safety overcome any prying force (at those threads) when the wheel is hung, and then hang the wheel. The minimum amount of "twists" means the minimum amount of untwists to remove, and the quickest time of refitting the rear wheel. I think I mention that in my video. Regards, |
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Zitat von Holger im Beitrag #19Zitat von ABS im Beitrag #18 Whooooo ... you flatter me.  Thanks for the kind words.Hey I only post videos I hope are useful to someone (including me in the future!) and if they prove to be so then I am happy. Truth be known, while making videos can be fun, doing them while doing a DIY project is a PITA, since it slows one down considerably. There are a few projects which I have done where I just don't bother because of that, and unlike the young people these days, I sure as heck don't need any validation from sharing. I am grumpy after all ...
Regards,
Grumpy Goat RSWasserboxer.com |
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Zitat von Grumpy Goat im Beitrag #22 Yep, I plan to only use finger tight so it should not be a problem to remove. I have a rubber cap that can slip over the end of the bolt is I need more grip. I'll probably store the bolt with the cap on the end of the threads to protect them. Bolt for wheel install.jpg - Bild entfernt (keine Rechte)
Lee
2016 R1200RS Iowa, USA |
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Thu Jan 17, 2019 7:31 pm (Last edited: Thu Jan 17, 2019 7:34 pm)
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I have this in my toolbox |
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Zitat von Tony101 im Beitrag #20 The reference to 5/16 was a riff on the American tendency to make auto repairs with the same bolts used on a 1962 John Deere tractor. It's a gift we have for doing the wrong thing, then blaming the manufacturer for not using hardware common to garden tractors and assemble yourself furniture.. From reading other posts, I assumed the lug bolts were 8MM. Apparently, that was wrong. However, I still like the idea of using a 40MM long socket head set screw for the job.
Old Forum Orphan
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And what is the dimension of the block of wood?
I would like to apologize to anyone I have NOT offended. Please be patient. I will get to you shortly.
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