Does anyone know where to find a 12V switched supply on the R1250RS?

I'm looking for a convenient 12V switched source in the under-seat area. I need a switched 12V supply for a Skene IQ160 LED stoplight controller. The IQ160 controller was intended for older BMW's and not for the newer generation, and as such is difficult to program "on the fly" as it was designed.
There is a green/white wire to a plug in the area between the front and rear seats which I've tapped into with a posi-tap, but it's not really doing the job. It measures only about 10V to ground (chassis), and I think this is the reason I am having difficulty, although the controller does power up and drives the additional stoplight LED's OK using the G/W as a supply. I have no CAN BUS errors doing it this way BTW.

I's a long story to explain fully, but to cut to the chase, a solid 12V switched supply would fix the problem. By switched, I mean with key/keyless ride switch on and off. The aux power socket is not really suitable because it remains on for about 1 minute delay after ignition off.
Has anyone ever seen a wiring diagram for these bikes? That would help.

Thanks, Wessie. Yes, the two real fuses are there on the 1250. When you say the switched one stays on for a while, how long do you mean? A second or two is fine, but the one-minute delay of the AUX power socket is way too long. I'll check on that switched fuse that you mention. Actually, I'm sure I did look at that some time ago when I started fiddling, but for some reason I never used it. I'll check the delay again.

I don't see a page for the product involved. What purpose is the switched power for?

I’m not 100% clear on the requirement, but I solved my power problems with a Fuzeblock under the seat that gives me switched (ignition) and “always live” outlets to feed accessories.

Such as charger, air pump, hot vest. With spare outlets for future use if needed.

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Boxerboy, your Fuzeblock FZ-1 as I understand has three connections. One to battery live (+ve), one to ground and a third trigger wire (the +VT yellow wire in the pic I would think), which is necessary to provide switched power out. Where is that trigger wire connected to on the bike?

Zitat von Boxerboy55 im Beitrag #6

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I’m not 100% clear on the requirement, but I solved my power problems with a Fuzeblock under the seat that gives me switched (ignition) and “always live” outlets to feed accessories.

Such as charger, air pump, hot vest. With spare outlets for future use if needed.

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Zitat

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https://www.r1200rforum.com/threads/bewildered-by-canbus.55381/#post-591965

A warning on the PDM60...it’s not well suited for items that need uninterrupted power. Always on puts more of a drain on the battery by leaving the LEDs lit all the time. If any circuit is switched power, cycling on bike will “reset” unit...disrupting power on any always on circuit. So, you have to add a kill switch on the ground to turn the unit off when not using the bike for prolonged periods and all circuits are forced to be always on.

It’s a serious design oversight. I’d have gone with my a Fuzeblock FZ-1 had I known. Slightly bigger and no bells and whistles, but it’s simple, analog reliability.

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Zitat von Steady Eddie im Beitrag #7

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Boxerboy, your Fuzeblock FZ-1 as I understand has three connections. One to battery live (+ve), one to ground and a third trigger wire (the +VT yellow wire in the pic I would think), which is necessary to provide switched power out. Where is that trigger wire connected to on the bike?

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That may be your problem. I tried that and decided against it when I learned the socket wasn’t a reliable indicator of when the bike was turned on or not. No power = no power on the switched circuits.

The license plate light has been a reliable 12v trigger for my pdm60

The license plate light shuts down a matter of 5 seconds or so after ignition switch off, same as the taillight, which would be ideal. It's a 5W incandescent bulb, so it's current draw would be I=P/V, i.e., 5/12 or about 420 mA. I did think of using that source some time back but never got around to trying it. The one minute to off delay of the aux power socket is too long, and also seems to upset my old BMW CAN bus charger.

Adding my LED additional stoplight controller, which has a draw of up to 390 mA or a nominal 150 mA according to its spec, to this source may or may not upset the CAN bus. (420mA +390 mA = 810 mA max). I will try it in the next week or so and report back. It's worth a try.

The green/white wire I mentioned in post #1 and which I'm using at present is also a good, switched source (off 5 sec after ignition off). However, its only at about 9.6V which my LED stoplight controller is not altogether happy with in terms of its programming options.

What fun it is to fiddle...

Zitat von wessie im Beitrag #12

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but remains live after the bike is "switched off" like every other suggestion above. I really do not think there is a circuit that fits the request from the OP i.e. one that shuts down immediately you press the keyless button as the ECU controls the shut down of circuits, not the rider.

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Page 155 of the uk manual describes the automatic shutdown. My low wattage spots are fed through the auxiliary socket and stay on for up to 10 minutes after ignition switch off due to their low current draw.

Alan