RE: Hello! Clutch problem - 2

Right - a slow leak with some air in the slave cylinder produce the opposite effect of clutch slippage.... And I see the report that the lever returns completely. It keeps coming back to your thoughts about the clutch plates.

In any case, I agree - even 9000 miles of low-speed law enforcement training should not cause the clutch to slip. My thought was - if this bike's part of the recall, then that might be a way to get a free evaluation of the hydraulics if not a diagnosis of what's wrong.

I bit the bullet and stripped it down at the weekend. Actually the bike has 7000 miles on it not 9000. I must be going senile!

Everything on the bike looks like the mileage is correct. absolutely no corrosion and its clean in places you cant clean too. Dealer service history, I am confident its genuine mileage.

One plate was completely smushed. trying to reference photos I have uploaded but the forum isnt liking it.

Whether this damage has been caused because the clutch is slipping, or whether this is what caused the clutch to slip i dont know. I have replaced slipping clutches before and never seen anything looking like that.

the over all stack height is below the minimum se

so stack height is below the minimum service limit, im going to replace the lot.

Any recommendations on where I can get a set of friction plates from?

The other plates in the background look 'as new' with full pillars of friction material, strange that 1 plate has failed.
Is the basket assembly ok?
If it was a slipping/non slave release I would think the damage would wear across multiple plates.
I think this is 'effect' and finding the 'cause' may be just as important

Zitat von Dave H im Beitrag #21

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The other plates in the background look 'as new' with full pillars of friction material, strange that 1 plate has failed.
Is the basket assembly ok?
If it was a slipping/non slave release I would think the damage would wear across multiple plates.
I think this is 'effect' and finding the 'cause' may be just as important

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Of course, $50 options are available on eBay...

On my prior R1100S, the dry clutch would last about 38,000 klm. I paid for 2 clutches and put in a 3rd myself. Now, at just on 40,000 klm, my R1250 RS is slipping. I don't abuse the machine, no burnouts or doughnuts. No hard launches. I use the recommended Advantech oil.

Selling dealer was difficult get service from. BMW specialist (non-factory) very helpful but...
Over the phone advice:
1. Slipping clutch was a common problem on many R1250s
2. Issue may be caused by insufficient free play at clutch lever so master cylinder is always "riding" the clutch.
3. Adjustment of free place is possible, but once slip takes place, components must be replaced.

I was quoted $1,000 Aus for the clutch plates. The 'Net has them (fibre plates only) for about $200 Aus.

If you want to provide greater free-play you need a small pick or needle, a 2 mm Hex key, an 8 mm spanner and a T25.
You remove the pivot bolt from the clutch lever and pull it out of the clutch hanger. Note the plunger has a round head and it is well retained by the rubber cap at the top of the brake piston.
The plunger has a thin shaft going back from the round head, and it broadens into a threaded portion. The thread is inserted into a barrel (which looks similar to the old rear drum brake mechanisms) There is a grub screw locking against the threads. Factory seems to paint the grub screw with red fingernail polish that needs to be removed for fitment of the Hex key.
You can shorten the distance between the round head and the barrel, and that increases the free-play. The same hex key that releases the grub screw, rotates the plunger.

At this point I think I will get the aftermarket fibre plates, and not the factory ones. Also I will probably not replace the pressure plate or springs. However, if there are any members that have any experience with replacement clutch plates, I would love to hear about them.

Since my last posting I have been in the USA for a month, and that delayed the work on the RS. I have disassembled the machine, found scoring and wear in the pressure plate, replaced the pressure plate, the friction plates (no obvious damage) and the springs (using EBC 15% stronger) and it is now back on the road. There is a fair bit involved, and I have written notes with some hard-earned tips. A good tool kit is needed, but nothing "special".

My notes are too long for a post, should I just attach them as a file?

Slipping clutch a "common problem" on the 1250RS? When did this start and has BMW addressed it?

One person's observation or opinion is now something BMW AG needs to address?

If I'm not mistaken, the R1200 and R1250 clutches are the same and a bit of a "new world" for many long time BMW riders and mechanics.

OK, my "notes" and observations on clutch repair are attached.