Tuning and modding » Installation of Denali DM 2.0 TriOptic LED Light Kit

I'll cover this in stages as it's a work in progress.

*FEATURING*
https://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/dena...?sku_id=1243215
https://machineartmoto.com/r1200r/2015-r...oled/light-bar/
https://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/dena...?sku_id=1764403
https://twistedthrottle.com/shop/electro...-pigtail-3-pin/

The first part was removing existing accessories to make room. The RS really SUCKS when it comes to offering room to mount extras on the bike.

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I removed all circuits from the FuzeBlocks FZ-1 so I could pull wires free. I needed all the space I could find to route the harness for the CanSmart...which is WAY bigger than I expected. I was able to eliminate two auxiliary circuits for now. One was for a power connection to my top case, but I can always run an SAE cord from the battery pigtail to the case if needed. Obtaining a power bank that fits in my tank bag eliminated the need for this circuit. Another was a power supply to a camera system I no longer use. I repositioned the wires for the circuit for my heated vest...rarely ever used, but worth keeping for now. I would later also keep the circuits for my Skene Lights (front and rear) and for my LED roundels (more on this later).

It took many attempts to figure out WHERE to put the CanSmart due to not only its size but the limited range of its pass-through connections. By fenagling the wire harness for the RDC sensor, I was able to position the CanSmart thusly...

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Next was to hook the CanSmart to the battery. In this position, the wire harness BARELY made it. I wanted a way to simplify this, but as the CanSmart can output a max of 30A, I could not use the FuzeBlocks because it has a total output of 30A with 10A max per circuit.

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Finally, for now, I had to reposition the Innovv K2 module. This was a royal pain because (unlike the newer K5) there are wires on both ends. Power and GPS antenna on one side and camera inputs on the other. This limits where it will fit. I had it positioned behind the Fuzeblocks at the pillon, but the CanSmart dominates that space. I reworked the wires to put it on top of the ECU. With the BMW manual removed from the saddle, it doesn't seem to have an issue, but I'm currently researching if this position will cause issues either with the DVR unit or the ECU as the Innovv uses WiFi to interface with an app on the phone.

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I am hoping this arrangement works. If not, I'm going to have to find another place for the DVR unit OR see if I can somehow make it fit back under the pillon along with the CanSmart. If anyone has experience in this area, I'd appreciate your thoughts.

More to come. After all this, I called it a day.

Let me add....

1. Sorry that the larger versions of the image aren't always like the previews. I'd expect they would have been the same as seen in the thread post.

2. Regarding the 3-wire pigtail connectors from TwistedThrottle, I'm currently electing not to use them. I intended to use the second auxiliary light harness to run the LED roundels, but the wire harness is so long, I don't see how I'd cram all that excess wire onto the bike. Maybe once I get the main circuit set up I'll find the space, but for now, I'm not even sure I could wire in the horn circuit. The down side of the Denali hardware is that you can't cut it down to size...you have to stuff the excess wire wherever it will fit.

Thanks for the details. Although each piece individually is relatively small for what they do, when a bike begins to get farkle'd out then it can become a game of Tetris trying to get everything to fit. At one point on my old bike I considered replacing the pillion seat with a cowl just so I'd have the extra space to cram stuff into.

I'm looking at lighting systems like Denali and am wondering why excess wire can't be shortened. Are the electronics sensitive to resistive wire length or just a project you don't want to deal with because of it being multi-conductor would require soldering and re-casing of wires to splice properly?

Zitat von Pyrrho im Beitrag #3

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Thanks for the details. Although each piece individually is relatively small for what they do, when a bike begins to get farkle'd out then it can become a game of Tetris trying to get everything to fit. At one point on my old bike I considered replacing the pillion seat with a cowl just so I'd have the extra space to cram stuff into.

I'm looking at lighting systems like Denali and am wondering why excess wire can't be shortened. Are the electronics sensitive to resistive wire length or just a project you don't want to deal with because of it being multi-conductor would require soldering and re-casing of wires to splice properly?

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Well, on to Stage 2 of the work.

I got some feedback saying that the Innovv K2 should not be next to the ECU. So, it's back to the drawing board to figure out how to put the Innovv back under the pillion. After some back and forth, I realized I could reposition the CanSmart and back the connectors under the latch mechanism to reach the RDC plug ins. It took some patience, but I pulled it off. Now the Innovv could go back where I had it.

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A benefit of moving the CanSmart to the new position is that it gave a bit more slack for hooking it up to the battery. In all the manipulation, I had to cut the retention strap on the inline fuse so it would fit through tight spaces. The cap still goes on, but it no longer has a retention strap. I then reworked the DVR wires so they were more neatly arranged under the saddle.

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With this done, it was time to install the MaMo Light bars. My first hurdle was installing them. The provided hardware is barely long enough to do the job. So, tomorrow I'm off to the hardware store to buy slightly longer bolts so I know they are securely attached. Then, my next issue is that these bars are not designed for Denali light systems. They require narrower bolts, which I can get from Denali for $45. Well, bollocks to that. I'm taking the kit to the hardware store and buying what I need to do the job since I'm going there anyhow.

The instructions tell you to loosen all the bolts for the crash bars, but just put a bottle jack under the crash bars to apply enough upward force to make the ONE HOLE realign and you're golden.

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Zitat von zer0netgain im Beitrag #5

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... They require narrower bolts, which I can get from Denali for $45. Well, bollocks to that.

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Zitat von Ray im Beitrag #6

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Zitat von zer0netgain im Beitrag #5

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... They require narrower bolts, which I can get from Denali for $45. Well, bollocks to that.

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What a surprise - I thought that bollocks was almost unknown in the US

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Zitat von Ray im Beitrag #7

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Zitat von Ray im Beitrag #6

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Zitat von zer0netgain im Beitrag #5

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... They require narrower bolts, which I can get from Denali for $45. Well, bollocks to that.

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What a surprise - I thought that bollocks was almost unknown in the US

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For the avoidance of doubt ... the word that is.

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For those who have this system…if I do the hybrid setup (spot one side, flood the other), which is the preferred placement or does it not matter?

Zitat von zer0netgain im Beitrag #10

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For those who have this system…if I do the hybrid setup (spot one side, flood the other), which is the preferred placement or does it not matter?

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Zitat von Bonzo im Beitrag #11

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Zitat von zer0netgain im Beitrag #10

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For those who have this system…if I do the hybrid setup (spot one side, flood the other), which is the preferred placement or does it not matter?

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Flood on the N/S, spot on the O/S I would think.

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Trip to the hardware store was fruitful if not absent minded. I had bought a threaded rod that I could cut to size, but I wanted full articulation on the lights, so I realized I should have bought appropriate bolts as well. Fortunately, I keep several coffee cans of leftover parts. After much searching, I found two matching bolts that could do the job. They were a tight fit, but with some work, they went in. As the head was smaller than what came with the lights, I had to use a locking plyers to hold the head still while tightening the locking nut. I thought to shave the bolt down so a minimal amount would extend past the nut, but after adding 3 split washers total, it was fine as is. Needless to say, it's a lot easier to do this OFF the bike than on the bike as I had to use a brass drift and hammer to drive the bolt into place with the side already mounted on the bike.

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As you can see, slightly longer bolts make a difference. I want to make sure parts won't work loose.

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From here, installing the lights themselves was simple enough. Next comes the task of installing the wire harness.

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Michael, looks like you're making progress, nice work. I was able to get both the EZ can and PDM60 under the seat latch, which freed up a lot of space in the tail for wires and my grounding block. this picture shows the section behind the cross bar, with seat latched removed (well, flipped forward).

you are right, not a lot of space! I used a combination of 2 and 3 wire pigtails, based on the lights connected (3 wires for clearwater), but soldered a custom harness to the 4 lights up front. In the back, I used Denali lights and was able to hide the excess in the tail assembly. I made a custom harness and wires for PDM60 (visible just barely in bottom of photo). If you need some extra space for the wires, consider putting them in the side, tail pieces of bodywork, just be careful how you route over/under the frame to avoid pinching with body work or seat. you may be able to route them out the back and then zip time them in the sides, out of the way.

Depending on your riding, you may also want to check ground clearance with the D2's. with my Kristas, mounted "down" they were below cylinder heads, so I mounted them to the "side."

O/S offside (on-coming traffic side, right hand side in UK, left in US and other Napoleon countries)
N/S near side (the side of the road you ride next to - left in the UK, right in US)