RE: Installation of Denali DM 2.0 TriOptic LED Light Kit - 2

Well, the bike is back together now. Routing wires wasn't as bad as I feared (no cutting down wire length).

I routed a wire pair to the front of the airbox. The largest annoyance is feeding the harness head through tight spaces. Eventually, I managed...

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The right side was a pain because the harness wouldn't lock in place. I cut a couple pieces of zip tie and forced it behind the latch. This made it hold tight, and I wrapped it in electrical tape for good measure.

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The left side had no drama.

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Finally, as a preventative measure, I installed the harness for the horn and tied it up at the neck so it's out of the way.

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The lights work and are set up as default. I'll have to wait until tomorrow when I can take it down to the road and see how the lights look...adjusting for aim.

Useful thread thank you.
I've just changed my RT for an RS - was hoping to fit my full Denali kit to the RS but starting to think the D4 lights are going to be a bit big on the RS. Ideally I wanted them mounted high up, but no chance that I can see.

Hi, I came from a GT and liked the higher light mounts too. I got some winglet mounts from @Fugly that are working quite well on my RS with Clearwater Darla lights (Kristas on bottom in photos).

imo, the mounts can't take a lot of weights and I had to modify them slightly to work with the Clearwater mounts (drilled slightly larger holes for bolt and use clock washer to fill small gap). They don't rotate around as much as I thought (barely at all). Highly recommended.

I recently installed the same Denali dm 2.0 pods on my 2017 RS up high using the air deflector mounts, a black nylon spacer that took 5 mins to turn on a lathe and a new 60mm m5 stainless screw. Really pleased with the discreet fit and bright results.
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I'm looking at putting Denali DMs on my bike and using the MAMo bars to mount them.

Is there any reason a long bolt couldn't be used to mount the DMs to the side of the MAMo bar end? So take the bracket completely off the DM and just go through both the bar and DM housing's hole in one shot? It'd depend on the IDs of the respective holes.

Thanks.

As long as you can get a secure/right fit that will work with vibrations I think you’ll be fine.

I think the side mount is better as it adds visibility further out (wider light triangle).

You likely won’t have this problem with the DM’s but when I first tried mounting my CW Krista’s “down” from mamo bar, they were below cylinder heads. So I went with side mount and rather like it.