accessories » Struggling to fit new luggage locks

I've just bought the new OEM top case, and as I have already bought a pair of used OEM panniers which came with a plastic key, I also bought three codable key cylinders to match them to my ignition key. However, so far I'm unable to fit any of the locks.

I seem to have managed to key the first cylinder correctly, following the BMW instructions ; however although I can introduce it into the hole in the top case, it won't stay in there. I presume the stop plate is meant to engage with a slot or something inside (I believe I need to insert the cylinder in the hole with the protruding stop plate at the bottom [ie 6' o'clock], right)?

Next up, I wanted to try this cylinder in one of the panniers. However, that already has a cylinder in place, operated by the plastic key. How do I remove the old unwanted cylinders from the panniers? Surely it's won't have to be a case of brute force, using a drill?

Freddy, the project you've undertaken is a difficult one at best. Don't be discouraged by my statement, but you must exercise absolute patience to insure success. First off you must remove the existing locks. This may be best accomplished by obtaining a dental instrument. An angled dental pick will be thin and sturdy to patiently root around the side of the cylinder to insert into its side to release it from the lock hole. The key should be in place to do this. Gently twist, prod, and turn things and it will eventually release. Be prepared for the tiny springs and leaves to pop out everywhere. Save them for a friend who may need to key a lock themselves. This may seem impossible, but it can be done. Search for YouTube videos to give you some additional perspective.
Once removed, the rest is pretty straight forward. The new cylinders should have all the leaves flush and sprung, a sleeve should be in place to hold all the parts in place after getting the right leaves in place for your key, and the last hole( first to go into the luggage) should be empty. At least that's how mine was. Also the key should be in place to set this up and to insert the cylinder. Again, watch as many YouTube videos as possible to get multiple perspectives.
Get all the cylinders set up before undertaking the cylinder insertion. When everything is set, carefully remove the sleeve with the spring side pointing upwards, and insert and twist the assembly until it engages and locks in place. Don't remove the key until the cylinder has fully engaged the luggage and the lock is fully seated. Work with the luggage on a workbench to keep those springs and leaves from falling out of the cylinder onto the floor. Did I say exercise patience???
This is a trial and error process. I keyed my side cases to match my key fob as I had to wait for the cases to ship to me, last winter, after enduring the DOT reflector fiasco. Best of luck and take plenty of deep breaths! Stick.

I have rekeyed locks twice now, and while it is fiddly, you need lots of patience as you almost certainly wont get it right first time and will have to remove them again.
strip the panniers down to get at the locking lever mechanism, loosen everything, and using a torch look for a little home at the bottom of where the lock is, I used a paper clip straightened. push it in and you will need to press to release the locking key.
you will need the key in place to be able to use it to pull the lock out, it should just slide straight out but a bit of jiggling might be needed.

rekeying is easy, but very fiddly, follow the instructions, and make sure you dont fit anything into the end slot.,when the key is inserted all the leaves or keys should be level with the outer diameter of the barrel. slide it into the hole and your done,
only the other side to now.
good luck

Thanks guys. Having viewed some YouTube videos I can see what I'm up against now ! When I have a moment I'll give it a go... Will let you know how it goes!

So that's the panniers; my other issue is fitting the newly-keyed lock in the new top case. As I mentioned, I seem to have got the new lock keyed OK, and it looks like the pic below; it slides all the way in to the barrel but the protuding plate isn't engaging anywhere and the cylinder just slides out again. For a start, could someone just confirm the correct orientation in the barrel please?!

Freddy, I don't have a top case, but I don't believe there is a need for a leaf in that very last position. The one in the picture that is sticking up. I didn't have leaves there, as mentioned in my prior response, but again, that was only for the side panniers. Hope this helps. Stick.

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I didnt fit that last leaf, if you do it jams the lock in the hole and you have to start again

A handy tip I was told is to grease the barrel as it helps to retain the little keeps in place.
Also 5 very small coordinated hands would help 😀

Zitat von roger44 im Beitrag #3

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strip the panniers down to get at the locking lever mechanism, loosen everything, and using a torch look for a little home at the bottom of where the lock is, I used a paper clip straightened. push it in and you will need to press to release the locking key.

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Still at it. You guys weren't kidding about needing patience!

I eventually managed to get the lock barrels out of the pannier in order to rekey them (the solution was in this YouTube video - you need to poke your paperclip down a screw hole, after removing a screw under the under the weather seal. Who knew?!)

Anyway, I now have a new problem. I've rekeyed and refitted the lock cylinders; however the panniers are now jamming closed. The rekeying is definitely correct as I can lock ad unlock the panniers to the bike no problem. However, when I tug the grey 'open' tab, the catches are not disengaging properly. One pannier is still open, and I've managed to prise open one catch on the other pannier without damage, but the second catch is still a work in progress unfortunately. Any tips on sorting that appreciated!

However, I currently have no idea why the catches aren't disengaging. Has to be something to do with my disassembly process, surely. It must be that the metal pins (see photo) aren't moving forward enough when I pull the grey tab (although they are moving). Has anyone come across this before and have any ideas what might be wrong? It all looks to be assembled Ok to me...

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