Electronics » Adding a USB socket

Hi all. Looking for a simple / inexpensive way to add a USB socket or two near the handlebars. The power socket is of course located all the way at the back which isn't all that helpful...! Nippy Normans has an option for £35 which looks like it has a canbus plug on the back of it, but no image of it fitted on an R1250RS.

New bike so not at all familiar with the electronics or placing of any sockets / cables. Any suggestions most welcome! Thanks

This one looks neat. Has a nice feature in that when not in use there is no discharge on the battery.
Wire direct to your battery via a suitable fuse.

https://www.louis-moto.co.uk/artikel/alb...number=10006777

Alan

I'm thinking this actually:

Optimate Dual USB

The DIN socket location is a bit of a pain under the seat for a handlebar mounted item, but I guess that's for 2 up riding reasons - and I suppose it means being able to charge something in a pannier or a tailpack if need be.

Is there room?
It looks a little cumbersome. If your socket location is the same as on my 2016 machine it could be a tight fit and vulnerable.
It is not a difficult job to thread a cable through to the bars and connection at the battery end is easy thanks to the remote positive terminal.
It would give you the outlet where you need it.

Alan

Zitat von Alda im Beitrag #4

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Is there room?
It looks a little cumbersome. If your socket location is the same as on my 2016 machine it could be a tight fit and vulnerable.
It is not a difficult job to thread a cable through to the bars and connection at the battery end is easy thanks to the remote positive terminal.
It would give you the outlet where you need it.

Alan

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The factory socket is canbus controlled and is switched off after varying times dependant on the load. It can be a useful source of power for accessories which could drain the battery if left on.
The remote terminal is under the battery cover on the right hand side. Remove the single screw holding the panel and don't lose the grommet, as many of us have done, which sits around the lower securing peg.
The remote positive terminal is now visible and can be used without fear of upsetting any bike electrics.
The battery negative is also visible but I would advise using a chassis earth if you are uneasy about disconnecting the battery.
Always use a suitable fuse/holder as close to the battery as you can and run your cable to your accessory.
Lots of info on here somewhere if you can locate it.

Alan

Just found this
FITTING POWER HUB

[quote=Alda|p25362]The factory socket is canbus controlled and is switched off after varying times dependant on the load. It can be a useful source of power for accessories which could drain the battery if left on.
The remote terminal is under the battery cover on the right hand side. Remove the single screw holding the panel and don't lose the grommet, as many of us have done, which sits around the lower securing peg.
The remote positive terminal is now visible and can be used without fear of upsetting any bike electrics.
The battery negative is also visible but I would advise using a chassis earth if you are uneasy about disconnecting the battery.
Always use a suitable fuse/holder as close to the battery as you can and run your cable to your accessory.
Lots of info on here somewhere if you can locate it.

Alan

Just found this
FITTING POWER HUB


That's great, thanks. Noted re wiring in a fuse. I've actually now bought the official SP Connect USB-C cable to wire into the bike. It's a neater solution than having a USB port at the socket and then running a permanent cable to the handlebars. It contains a 12V - 5V converter. The only thing is that rather than wire directly to the battery, they recommend a 12V switched supply to avoid battery drain, and I don't know how to identify one; is there a convenient switched live either anywhere near the battery or at the handlebars? That said, I'm frankly a bit nervous of cutting into wires on a brand new bike for warranty reasons.

Zitat von Alda im Beitrag #6

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Just found this
FITTING POWER HUB

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Rather than use a piggyback fuse holder, I'm now planning on just running a direct cable from the battery with an inline 5A fuse to power the SP Connect wireless charger using their own USB-C connection cable that steps the voltage down from 12V to 6V.

I attempted to measure the current draw with the cable wired in and no phone on the wireless charger using a multimeter and it barely registered. The charging pad has an on off switch anyway and a red light to indicate it is on, so hopefully I'll be able to remember to switch it off and if on occasion I forget the draw should not kill the battery overnight. If I'm parking the bike up for an extended period, I can always disconnect the cable at the charger end.

Anyone who wants to tell me that's a dumb idea, though, please do - I am all ears....

Hi Olie,

All sounds good to me, crack on

I needed an aux charging socket, but near the front of the bike, so just went direct (via a fuse) and installed a normal cigarette style lighter. This allows me to put in a usb dual/single converter, but more importantly to power my tyre pump should the need arise.
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