General topics » R 1250 Disassembly

The removal of the bodywork is really quite obvious, and requires a T25. I find that an electric driver is the best method (except for the 2 T25s that hold on the winglets on the left and right. These have to be removed to gain access to one of the mounting screws for the tank covers.

There are 5 types of T25s used in the RS

Standard length - without shoulders (Type 1)

Standard length with standard shoulders (Type 2)

Standard length with extended shoulders (Type 3)

Extended length (shorter), without shoulders (Type 4)

Extended length (longer), without shoulders (Type 5)

Type 1s are the 3 rear-most fasteners on the tank cover. They also fasten the infill panels either side of the TFT. They also hold down the centre trip (which is Aluminium on my RS). These account for 14 of these fasteners.

Type 2 is the "default" fastener. It covers all other locations in the tank covers. It covers the inner and outer lower fairing panels (unless indicated otherwise below). It also holds in the "snorkels" (the right side pops out, the left? maybe, but not worth the effort)

Type 3 is the front upper mount for the inner lower fairing panel. This differs from the R1200 RS, as the 1250 only uses 1 on each side. There are only 2 of these on the bike.

Type 4 is used for the inner lower fairing panel where it attaches to the threaded boss on the radiator. There are only 2 of these.

Type 5 are the 4 fasteners that hold on the winglets.

When you pull things apart you will have a parts tray that is filled right up with these fasteners, and it can be quite daunting - but as long as you know the location of the less common T25s it will all work out using the Type2s.

Just reading about the disassembly is daunting. To say nothing of trying to figure out how each of those fasteners goes back into the proper holes.

This is a comment on removal of the petrol tank.

The rear mount has 6 bolts, 4 T30s and 2 T40s. Only the rear-most T30s need be removed.

However, it is also necessary to unplug the 2 electrical connectors. Each have accessible side-tabs for release. On mine, there was an extraneous zip tie to be cut to allow the upper connector to be released.

The T40s fit inside of a "stove pipe" These also have to be lifted out once the T40s are removed with a flat blade screwdriver under the lip. The sides of the stove pipe also secure the location of the mount.

It is probably easier to remove the connections to the top of the tank before it is moved too far out of position, and it can be done with the mount in place, but taking it out gives you some "wriggle room".

There are 2 hoses that go into the side of the cap assembly one from the right, one from the left. One is a vent, another is an overflow. They are not clipped to the petrol cap, and just pull right off. There is also an electrical lead for the keyless ride cap on the left. That is not disconnected at the tank. However, you should release the 2 hoses and the electrical lead from the self-evident clips.

The keyless ride connection is a PITA. The socket is fixed to the fairing support on the left side, behind the left snorkel. However, it is the socket that is connected to the tank, not the lead. The lead comes from the wiring loom of the bike. This means you have to remove the lead (it uses a difficult press to release and pull ) but the wire is still connected to the frame and the tank. The socket should be able to be released easily with a small screwdriver, but I did not master the "knack" and I used brute force to prize the socket clear.

The front of the tank contains the important connections. There is a quick disconnect coupling to the fuel line. It works well. Press to release. The tank is then sealed, more or less.

There are 2 electrical connectors, also press to release. They are different sizes so they only go back on one way. The smaller size is closer to the centre of the access / mounting plate, the larger size is closer to the outside edge.

The tank no only has to be lifted free, with the electrical lead to the cap, and put upright somewhere else.

Reassembly is simply the reverse, but remember if it does not align it is because there is something wrong, something out of place. Once aligned , it is simple. You may need a small "podge" to help align the T40s but it may not be needed if there is nothing new put under the tank (like wiring) as it just slots straight back in.

This is a comment on removal of the airbox.

You do not need to open the airbox, or mess with the filter element.

There are 3 T30 bolts that hold the airbox (apart from the tubes to the throttle bodies, the snorkels (1 T25 each side) a 15 to 20 mm breather hose, and 1 electrical connection)

The 2 rear T30s are easy to remove when the petrol tank is out of the way.

The front one needs an extension and then the alignment of the T30 and the top steer yoke foul. I found the "tool" solution using a small universal joint on my 1/4 inch drive - but after fitting and refitting a number of times, I found a straight extension will work if the steering is turned to its lock.

Each T30 is fitted with a large black washer that presses on a rubber bumper and are easy to overlook.

The breather hose uses a squeeze to compress spring clip. I have a radiator hose clip remover and it was ideal for this clip. Once the clip is dropped down onto the hose, the hose just pulls off with a bit of a nudge from a straight bladed screwdriver.

The electrical connection uses the "chrome steel wire" clip, and that is released by pulling it slightly backwards. The connector then pulls down and out.

I think the hose on the right side from the petrol tank may be clipped to the airbox. It can be pulled free easily.

BMW uses a number of "squeeze to release" and "squeeze to engage" clips on the rubber connectors to the throttle body. These are soft aluminium. You have to find the point of "overlap" and then you have to position your pliers to allow you to squeeze. Once you have moved the clip, a very little amount, maybe 2 mm, it releases.

The BMW part is rubbish. It is too large to fit in the available space and it mangles the bosses that you bear against. My right angle contracting circlip pliers worked well.

I only had to take off 1 of the clips, and that was the one at the top of the throttle body on the left side. This allowed enough play to swing the airbox out of the way.

Re-mounting the airbox is straight forward. If it doesn't fit, something is wrong. Check you fuel line being under it. Guess how I know this.

Re-fitting the BMW clip is fiddly. The clips are soft. You must first get the tube over the throttle body, and this seemed to be an easy thing to do. You then have to wrap the clip around the tube. I found this worked very well if I used WD 40 and carefully ensured that the clip sat all the way round in the "valley" and did not foul the boss on the top. I used a straight blade screwdriver to encourage it to be seated. When it is in the right position, the distance the clip has to be pulled together is very small, maybe 2 mm. With the WD-40 there is no unnecessary resistance.

My preference is to bolt the airbox in with the T30s and then attach the breather hose and the electrical connector. If you forget the connector, you will get a fault warning. Again, don't ask...

If you are inclined to add circuits to the RS, there is enough room under the petrol tank and the airbox to run the wires forward. However, the base of the airbox sits over a fairly well "filled in" section of frame and you will have to divert to the sides from that point. I eventually ran 2 leads (both fused). 1 for the horns, the other for the USB port I have in the infill panel. Compared to my R1200RS, the wiring is "better" with the exception of my access to the fuse for the horns. In order to make it invisible, I have made it inaccessible to a degree. The wiring goes "up" over the battery box and then forward.

This is a comment on the removal of the horn and replacement with a relay.

Once the airbox is out of the way you still can't see the horn from above. It is blocked by the frame, and the gusset, and also by the over-flow tank.

I did not want to "break" the cooling system so I merely removed the 2 rear-most T30 short bolts from the bracket that secures the over-flow tank. That gave a little more "wriggle" room.

When you are sitting on the left of the bike, you can just see the disc horn. It is facing forward. It is secured by 1 T30 bolt which enters from the front of the bike. It bolts into a bracket that has a welded 10 mm nut to receive it. You are looking at the horn and bracket effectively through a keyhole. You can't get your fingers in there, but you can get 1 finger from "the back" and get close to another finger from the front. I initially removed the horn from the 12 mm central nut, but that was a dead end. The spring mounting plates prevented sufficient movement in the horn to extract it.

The T30 can be removed by a 1/4 extension and ratchet slipped in from the front. A lot of patience is needed and when you drop the T30, you will lose it. Again, don't ask.

However, I did this a number of times as I fitted up the horn and perfected the wiring, so I can say it is possible to do the work without dropping it, but keep a mechanic's magnet handy.

When the T30 is removed, the horn is free to wriggle about.

You should be able to get to the horn connector at this point. It is a version of the press to release and separate connector and is moderately difficult to squeeze the clip.

The horn has to be twisted and wriggled and extracts to the left, under the frame tube which is welded to the horn bracket.

I used a "Nippy Norman's" connector on the R1200 RS, and re-used it on the 1250. Apart from some of the wiring, I re-used the parts.

My power wire fed in from the right and through the frame. I have a tool that has 4 small "grapples" inside a wound spring that can be pushed and expanded to grab stuff. I used that tool to pull the wires through to the left side.

Effectively the relay has 4 posts. (I will explain the 5th post below). 2 of them take the Nippy Norman's leads (with crimpled spade connectors). It does not matter which connector goes to which side. These may be numbered on the relay by "85" and "86". The terminal numbered "30" takes the hot lead from the battery. The terminal numbered "87" takes the switched load to the horns.

If you have one with a 5th terminal, that is also numbered 87 or 87a, depending on how good the tool maker is in China.

Typically, the 5th terminal is in the middle, and the "30" and "87" are at the sides.

Maybe the central terminal is continuously live, maybe not. If it is, an you plug your horn lead into it, it will sound continuously.

I did all of the electrical work with the earth lead disconnected, and I put a piece of tape over the terminal, as the earth strap from the RS will rest against the terminal and make a connection otherwise. Because I was wiring up the relay on the left side of the RS, and the relay had to be put inside the frame, there was more wire than ideal. (also the Nippy Norman's leads are quite long and I did not shorten them). I bound the wires with zip ties. I also used a light steel strap, drilled for the 6 mm frame mount and bolted at the other end to the relay.

With a lot of fiddling, and using the expedient of putting a slightly longer T30 in the strap to help position it into the mounting hole, I was able to eventually get it attached. I tried at one stage to use a zip tie, but the mounting was insecure. Good lights, tea or water to stop cramps, a good stool, and a lot of patience is needed to mount the relay.

The hot wire dropped from the relay down to the left horn. I used piggy back spade clips for the horns. The sub-loom for the lefthorn was fed though the frame in front of the motor using the spring grapple to where the right horn would be. I used a piggy back clip on the negative to tie into the earth to the battery wire. My experience has been earthing the horns to the battery is more reliable than earthing them to the frame.

For the majority of the runs of wire I used the black ribbed conduit that BMW uses for the horns. For the USB leads I used the "expanding" "Chinese handcuff" sheathing.

The "bottom line"?

The job appeared more daunting before it began. Apart from dropping 1 bolt, there were no really hard, difficult tasks. There were plenty that required time, patience, good lighting, good eyes and skinny fingers, but the standard issue fingers actually did the job. There are a lot of bits and pieces taken off that have to be replaced. This can lead to a "did I use the wrong fastener" anxiety which is the reason I did the Type 1 -5 post.

The BMW is well made. There is precision in the parts, they way they fit, and the way they sit "at rest" which makes it simple to ensure the right connections. If it doesn't fit easily, re-check your work and there will be an obvious issue (where is my cup of tea??).

Very helpful!

Maybe you also have a comment on the removal of the side and tankfairings?

Removal of fairing
For this you need a T25 driver. I use a dedicated screwdriver and an interchangeable T25 hex drive on a Milwaukee driver.
Steps are

Remove the seat.

Remove the grey plastic winglets. Use the screwdriver T25. Watch out for the o-rings that are to secure the small steel "hats".

Use the 'driver to undo the 3 rear T25s, then the 4 on the top of the tank, and the last one near the BMW badge.
Gently grip the panel and lift straight up. If there is still a T25 in place you will feel it.
The panel is retained at the top by fingers that latch into a channel on the center panel, and by a moderately firm clip to the lower panel that sports the turn signal. I found lifting straight up but gently rocking it fore and aft works.
Both sides are the same.
The lower panel is different to the 1200. There are 3 T25s, with 2 of then internal. The screwdriver is best for the internal ones. You will need light and flexibility!
You need a small flat blade screwdriver to lift the securing tab on the turn signal lead and then lift the outer panel away.
The inner panel has only 2 T25s. One into the radiator and the other up into the nose fairing. Again, the internal one is easiest to manage with the T25 driver.
If you are to remove the inner panel, rather that let it swing by the turn signal socket, you have to detach the socket. Sometimes it just slides off, no issues, other times it just doesn't. 1 or 2 Hornig vids show the screwdriver insertion procedure. I wish I knew the secret.
On reassembly use the radiator boss T25 to initially fix the inner panel. Feed the turn signal socket through the passage, leave it loose. Fit the front T25, then fit the socket. Don't be worried about lack of support, the panel is also anchored by the winglet bolts. In positioning the panel you may need to wiggle the top hats for the winglets to let the bosses slide into position.
The outer lower panel is best secured by its external T25. At this point slide / rock the panels to get a nice engagement of them at the bottom. All being well you can finger start the internal T25s and finish with the screwdriver T25.
The tank panels drop into place but you need to guide the bottom clip behind the lower panel. You will know when you are positioned correctly as the fingers line up with the channel and the upper holes align with the threaded clips.
I like the Milwaukee set at torque setting 7. Be aware the shouldered bolts need some finesse to see it sits fully home.

Thanks a lot!

Good info
Could one of the mods make this a Sticky?

Hi Aussie Import. You wrote "and by a moderately firm clip to the lower panel" in the removal of fairing post: do you mean that metal clip which looks quite complicated, and do I need a screwdriver or something for that metal clip to disconnect the 2 fairings?

Zitat von GvG im Beitrag #12

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Hi Aussie Import. You wrote "and by a moderately firm clip to the lower panel" in the removal of fairing post: do you mean that metal clip which looks quite complicated, and do I need a screwdriver or something for that metal clip to disconnect the 2 fairings?

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If you are worried about fastener location, get a cardboard box and use a podger to out holes in so that fasteners are in order of removal and in a pattern that matches the bike layout. So when it comes to putting them back the right fasteners are in the logical place on the card.