What have you done to bike » 2016 Style 2 set up for high speed fun!

Guys, I have a GS for touring so I use my RS as my Sunday morning hooligan bike to enjoy all of the mountains that surround me here at home. My mods are solely for the purpose of improving the RS in all areas where it has slight deficiencies with this type of use. So with this post, you won’t find any talk of alternative panniers, wind noise improvements or brighter lights…I’m good with none of that because my GS has all of that covered rather nicely. Much of my energy has been spent opening up the rider position to accommodate my long legs and bad knees and doing so one item at a time while testing the max lean angle all along the way. I hope some of my “one-off” ideas around ergonomics will inspire other ideas and that you will share those as well so we can all benefit and continue to build our base of knowledge for the beloved RS.

Here are my mods in no particular order:

Front Seat: My bike came with the 820MM seat height and I raised it to 840MM. I also reupholstered the seat to a new scheme that tied in with my rear seat/tail bag modification and the Granite Grey color.

Rear Seat: I felt I needed to add a small amount of day storage to the bike so I integrated a Held tail bag into an OEM rear seat pan (Thanks to Roger!). I cleaned up all the lines of the bag by eliminating all of the original straps and flaps etc. Both seats are locked down and removed the same way as the originals.

Rearsets: To further reduce my knee bend I have built brackets that lower the rearsets as assemblies a total of 19mm.

Foot Pegs: To reduce knee bend even further I have removed the OEM foot peg’s rubber inserts and replaced them with my own slimmer design with a higher level of traction.

HP Levers: Love both the look and the feel of these parts. Clutch operation into neutral improved immediately.

SC-Project Exhaust: Absolutely love the sound!!! Best mod on my bike IMO. Pro-Shift Assist never sounded better.

Nav. Relocation: Ram mounted (not visible) and clears all controls at full lock while giving me full view at a glance. No vibration issues and works as an ideal telemetry screen location without a need for a sunshade and the best part is that the parts cost me a whopping $20.00.

Dark/Black Windscreen: I initially wanted an OEM dark tinted screen until I saw the price. Black paint applied to the inside of the OEM clear screen looks great and washes up perfectly and I can replace the screen very inexpensively if it is ever needed. This screen also doubles as the sunshade to my Nav. unit.

Side Stand: This bike nearly rolled away from me the very first time I had it on a center stand in a parking lot with a very slight inclination. The problem is that there is not enough lean angle and thus not enough weight on the side stand to hold the bike on a small incline. I removed the side stand’s foot and removed 12mm of the leg and welded it all back together. Lean angle while on the side stand is vastly improved and there is enough weight on the stand now that the bike will not roll if it is parked on a slight incline. The end result looks 100% OEM.

Center Stand: The center stand was dragging mid-corner on heavy lean angle corners. I removed the bump stop bracket, modified it and re-welded it to give the center stand even more ground clearance. I also ground and rounded the corners of the feet that were dragging to eliminate the possibility altogether. The end result is a center stand that looks and operates exactly like an OEM unit.

Tail Tidy: Evotech w/Machine Art Mudsling just to clean up the rear lines of the bike and add a bit of the R1200 S flavor.

Cylinder Head Covers: Machine Art

The other mods that I have are typical stuff, wiring for a heated jacket, battery tender, etc.

That’s about it for now…I’ll get back to wearing out tires and report back more at a later date.

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Looks nice and IMO a great colour to compete with all those lupin devotees.

For those who drive, and typically park, on the left hand side of the road (e.g. in the UK), the side stand presents no stability problem.

Very clean mods. Bike looks great! Did you make the new seat covers yourself or buy and install? They match the bike really well.

Really tastefully done updates. Wondering if you could share a little detail about a couple of the updates?

You mentioned you painted the inside of your windscreen and it is easy to clean. What kind of paint did you use? Did you end up just using a gloss spray paint?

Any chance you can share which RAM mount pieces you used to relocate the NAV?

Again - thanks for the post!

Thanks for the compliments. The seat covers and foam work to raise the rider's seat height and lower the pillion height was done by an upholsterer that I work with on other projects. The ultra-suede is actually called Granite Grey so it seemed like I had to try it. The smooth black vinyl on the seat's sides matched the Held tail bag color and seemed like a good fit. We used the red thread to pick up on the RS badging that uses a red outlined letter. When we were doing this it was going to be a love it or hate it decision but in the end, it works really well and looks very nice on the bike.

Thank you for your kind words. I am happy to share what I have been doing with the RS.

The windscreen is simply removed and the backside needs to be very clean and dry. No need to even scuff the surface. Semi-gloss black paint was used and it was labeled as "OK to be used on plastic" and would not be as reflective as high gloss paint. Nothing special about the paint really. The backside is a non-glare finish but once it's mounted up on the bike when you look through the clear frontside it looks like high gloss black and not semigloss. The thickness of the clear plastic makes the paint look deep and natural and a high gloss black. The upper edge (roughly 1/4") is left clear so that I can pull up or push down the screen without messing up the black painted surface on the back. I don't typically ever move my screen but when I do so in the shop I push against the sides to avoid marring or scratching the black painted underside. I did this also when it was clear for the same reasons.

The Ram mounts that I used are these:
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If you remove the windscreen and black plastic beneath it you can see the back of your dash aka "Front Panel Carrier". You will notice that the factory provided a single circular location in their casting that appears to be designed as a mounting location that is unused. I say this because the 8mm boss is webbed for strength but not pre-drilled from the factory. I removed the circular clips that secure the instrument cluster and I removed the instrument cluster momentarily before I drilled the hole through the Front Panel Carrier. It only makes sense to drill this hole from the front towards the rear to use the existing boss as your guide. I was able to through-bolt the angled Ram base using a stainless steel pan head Allen bolt and nylock nut on the rear. When you reinstall the instrument cluster you can no longer see the head of the bolt that secures the angled base. Once the Ram parts are assembled you will find a sweet spot where the Nav. unit can sit that is slightly off-center to the right side and tucked back close to the windscreen. The Nav unit is close to the windscreen but not touching it and the brake reservoir cannot reach it at full lock left. Because the nav. unit is off-center the clutch reservoir is a none issue when the bars are turned full lock right. I hope this helps explain what I have done here. Ping me if you have any questions.

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Thank you for taking time to reply - well thought out on the NAV mount. I will be getting a 2020 model, hoping your solution works for the Nav6 as well.

Really like your choice of the SC slip-on as well. Does it have a removable baffle like the Remus has or do you find the sound pretty good as is?

So many people really GS their RS with mods, but yours is one of the best RS mod sets I have seen.....will def "borrow" some of your ideas

Thanks again!

I looked down inside my SC-Project slip On and it is straight through without a DB killer. I love the sound and so do my friends. It's not too loud and the bark is great and it crackles under decel. People behind me always comment that they know when I am getting on the throttle exiting a corner and they are gauging this sound to get on the throttle themselves. It's a nice aggressive sound without being too overpowering in my opinion. I found this comment on their website that speaks to whether a DB killer is available: "DB Killer removable to modify from street legal configuration to racing configuration" ... I have never used this on the street.


Here is a link to the product:
https://www.motovationusa.com/bmw-r1200r...ttribute_values[1922]=null

Thanks, Uberboxer and let us know more about the 2020 when you get it. I'm sure it will be awesome!

CK_AZ_SB -

Thanks once again for being so helpful, really appreciate it! The way you describe the sound of the SC seems perfect for the street. Cant wait until my RS gets into my hands.

Zitat von CK_AZ_SB im Beitrag #8

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I looked down inside my SC-Project slip On and it is straight through without a DB killer. I love the sound and so do my friends. It's not too loud and the bark is great and it crackles under decel. People behind me always comment that they know when I am getting on the throttle exiting a corner and they are gauging this sound to get on the throttle themselves. It's a nice aggressive sound without being too overpowering in my opinion. I found this comment on their website that speaks to whether a DB killer is available: "DB Killer removable to modify from street legal configuration to racing configuration" ... I have never used this on the street.


Here is a link to the product:
https://www.motovationusa.com/bmw-r1200r...ttribute_values[1922]=null

Thanks, Uberboxer and let us know more about the 2020 when you get it. I'm sure it will be awesome!

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