RE: Torque Wrench Dillema - 2

Zitat von Bobby im Beitrag #12

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Craftsman. Nothing fancy but very good quality. And easy to replace if something goes wrong.

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Zitat von Lee im Beitrag #16

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Zitat von Bobby im Beitrag #12

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Craftsman. Nothing fancy but very good quality. And easy to replace if something goes wrong.

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Most of my hand tools are Craftsman I purchased at Sears.
Do any other stores carry Craftsman or do you have to buy online?

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I also started with Craftsman - now available at Lowe's and my local ACE hardware dealer.
FWIW, when replacing torque wrenches, I always look at the price of Snap-Ons..., just to remind myself what accurate tools actually cost. My current set of torque wrenches is from Minneapolis-based Park Tools.

Zitat von Lee im Beitrag #16

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Zitat von Bobby im Beitrag #12

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Craftsman. Nothing fancy but very good quality. And easy to replace if something goes wrong.

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Most of my hand tools are Craftsman I purchased at Sears.
Do any other stores carry Craftsman or do you have to buy online?

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Zitat von Mr. 36654 im Beitrag #17

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Zitat von Lee im Beitrag #16

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Zitat von Bobby im Beitrag #12

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Craftsman. Nothing fancy but very good quality. And easy to replace if something goes wrong.

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Most of my hand tools are Craftsman I purchased at Sears.
Do any other stores carry Craftsman or do you have to buy online?

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Lowes and Ace hardware are in-store. How they handle replacement these days? I don't know.

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Zitat von Ray B im Beitrag #18

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My current set of torque wrenches is from Minneapolis-based Park Tools.

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I have two Kobalt (Lowes Hardware) torque wrenches: 50-250 and 20-100 ft lbs. One old USA made beam torque wrench 0-100 ft lbs. And two Park Tools: 10-60 and 3-15 Nm. Main reason for the Park Tool purchases was servicing and installing Race Tech Gold Valves in the Ducati forks. But have since used them quite regular for the small torque fasteners on the RS, as well as other bikes. I don't trust my internal "click" as much as I used to.

Torque wrenches are only for higher figures where sufficient and even tightening is “important”, e.g. my car wheels went on last week at 120 and 140 Nm.

Lower figures just need that gentle touch. Body panels, 6mm fastenings just need a tweak.

I recently showed my teen grandson how to refit a domestic electrical wall socket.
“How tight?” I asked him. “Really tight he suggested.”

He then enjoyed a lesson on why “really tight” was incorrect. And just tight enough to (a) stay tight and (b) not to destroy the item or the fastening was the way forward.

It’s been said before, torque wrenches are the spawn of the devil when used unwisely. And - they’re not accurate for ever.

ps - go try the L shaped piece of bent tin that masquerades as a rear wheel removal tool. You’ll find out what 60Nm feels like. You ain’t doing a roadside wheel change with that.

Zitat von Boxerboy55 im Beitrag #23

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Body panels, 6mm fastenings just need a tweak.

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Zitat von Boxerboy55 im Beitrag #23

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Torque wrenches are only for higher figures where sufficient and even tightening is “important”, e.g. my car wheels went on last week at 120 and 140 Nm.

Lower figures just need that gentle touch. Body panels, 6mm fastenings just need a tweak.

I recently showed my teen grandson how to refit a domestic electrical wall socket.
“How tight?” I asked him. “Really tight he suggested.”

He then enjoyed a lesson on why “really tight” was incorrect. And just tight enough to (a) stay tight and (b) not to destroy the item or the fastening was the way forward.

It’s been said before, torque wrenches are the spawn of the devil when used unwisely. And - they’re not accurate for ever.

ps - go try the L shaped piece of bent tin that masquerades as a rear wheel removal tool. You’ll find out what 60Nm feels like. You ain’t doing a roadside wheel change with that.

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I remember one place you needed a small torque on the K1300S was the clutch cover.
The cover was held in place by 17 small aluminum (one time use) bolts.
You tightened the bolts to 3Nm then a 1/4 turn.
It would be difficult to get the torque the same on all 17 bolts without a torque wrench.

Pictures in this link.
http://rvbprecision.com/machine-tools-we...stallation.html

Zitat von Lee im Beitrag #26

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I remember one place you needed a small torque on the K1300S was the clutch cover.
The cover was held in place by 17 small aluminum (one time use) bolts.
You tightened the bolts to 3Nm then a 1/4 turn.
It would be difficult to get the torque the same on all 17 bolts without a torque wrench.

Pictures in this link.

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I use the torque wrench where the metal being screwed into is relatively soft, otherwise I just go by feel. Always put the body panels on hand tight....risk of failure is low and there are just too many screws to bother with a torque wrench.
I also use the low setting torque wrench on my MTN bikes and road bike. These are aluminum and aluminum sleeves in the carbon fiber. Can't afford to make a mistake with these.

I do the body panels by feel also, but most of those bolts have a bottoming shoulder so relatively foolproof.

[quote=Paul911|
[/quote]
That's called "torque to yield"
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Torque-to-yield_fastener
Germans love those. [/quote]

I remember torque to yield when doing the cylinder head of a K1100 engine. I think it was a certain torque then 90 deg. I could actually feel the bolts stretching- not a comfortable feeling by any means. I remember feeling that at times in the past just before the bolt snapped! (Using the incorrect torque value)

Frank