RE: Lets talk scrubbing in new tires - 2

Zitat von Tony101 im Beitrag #15

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Zitat von gc141x im Beitrag #12

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> perhaps it was on an R1550R forum, which would be consistent with the idea of an addled brain but I'm pretty sure it was Richard.

That should have read R1150R instead R1550R. Sorry- age, a small screen laptop, and a couple of beers in your backyard can get in the way. I'm pretty sure it was you Richard- I seem to remember the 'dropping a pound or two' theory and buying into it. Testing traction can be tricky though. :)

GC

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Are you sure that he wasn't just calling you a fat bastard?!!

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Fat bastards need traction too.

Zitat von gc141x im Beitrag #14

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Right but we're talking about a way to scuff new tires quickly. So does the 'no more than 10% above cold' standard apply given the intent? Perhaps it does. While I don't think it's a good idea to achieve 'scuffdom' at the cost of some other safety consideration, the low pressure approach may still be useful. I just don't know enough to argue forcefully and it may not even matter on a hot summer day.

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@Richard230 I think you were talking about traction but I acrobatically extrapolated from your comments and my hazy memory.

Zitat von gc141x im Beitrag #19

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@Richard230 I think you were talking about traction but I acrobatically extrapolated from your comments and my hazy memory.

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Zitat von azqkr im Beitrag #1

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What's everybody's idea of proper break in/scrub in on new moto tires?

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Zitat von wessie im Beitrag #8

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The answer lies at the end of your right arm with throttle and brake control, making appropriate adjustments for road conditions regardless of how new the tyres might be.

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I detest getting new tyres fitted ( please note correct spelling ) as I am always a little distrustful of the grip levels. I would always observe the "taking it easy for the first 100 miles" approach leaning more gradually as the miles increase. As to lowering pressures, modern sports touring tyres are designed to operate across a wide range of temperatures, plus the tyre companies spend hundreds of thousands of £ / $ ( I can't find the Euro sign on my post Brexit keyboard ) developing these tyres so I would tend to go by their advice rather than a bloke on the forum / in the pub. I was always led to believe people lowered pressures for say track days as the heat generated would be more than what would be expected in any sort of road riding, which allows the heat to increase the pressure to a near normal range. I'm not claiming to be an expert but I think dropping / raising pressures beyond the manufacturers advice is a bit pointless in normal day to day riding. Another thing to consider is if you have an accident and your tyres are found to be below the recommended pressures it could be argued that they were a contributory factor in causing the accident. You know what insurance companies are like any excuse to get out of paying up.

What I object to is that now tire and vehicle manufacturers provide only one set of tire pressure recommendations that I assume are selected for the vehicle's maximum speed at its maximum load. That was not always the case. Until about 10 years ago, both tire and motorcycle manufacturers would provide two sets of tire pressures, one for solo riding and one for two-up riding. That is the case for my 2002 Yamaha FZ1 and for all of the old airhead BMW's that I have owned in the past. That seemed like a more reasonable approach, but now you only get one recommendation for all types of riding. No doubt due to product liability concerns.

Just to illustrate my point about evolving tire pressure recommendations, I was thumbing through my huge Clymer BMW airhead service manual and in the front of the book it lists the BMW recommended air pressures for various model years for speeds up to 100 mph. Of course all of these models had tubes in their tires which might make a difference in pressure recommendations, compared with tubeless tires.

1970-1973 rider only: 30 psi front/33 psi rear, when carrying a passenger: 33 psi front/38psi rear.

1974-1976 rider only: 30 psi front/31 psi rear, when carrying a passenger: 31 psi front/35 psi rear.

1977-1987 rider only 27 psi front/29 psi rear, when carrying a passenger 30 psi front/32 psi rear.

1988-on (up to the speed limit - no speed mentioned) rider only: 31 psi front/36 psi rear, when carrying a passenger: 34 psi front/41 psi rear.

Richard,

An interesting read - the figures you give above. Of course tyre design has changed massively over 50 years. Most obviously tubeless tyres are the norm.

What stands out is the 3-5 psi difference on the rear. However I do wonder whether tyres are now more rigid and thus there is less need for a big difference at the rear.

Speaking of my own current use I like to keep the front tyre bang on 36 psi but don't mind the rear drifting below 42 by 1 or 2 psi unless fully laden when touring when I tend to set out with 37/43 to allow for some air loss en route (Though now I have got a Rocky Creek pump I can easily top up daily if required)

Chris

My 2002 Yamaha FZ1, which has the usual 120/180 size radial tires, owner's manual says to use 36/42 PSI when fully loaded and 36/39 PSI when riding solo. I have a number of motorcycle tire manufacturer tire fitment brochures from six or more years ago and they all provided recommended tire pressures for each motorcycle model that had both solo and two-up riding. Not any more, though. Now they all just provide one set of pressures. So it must be a new industry standard.

Zitat von TriangleRider im Beitrag #22

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Zitat von wessie im Beitrag #8

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The answer lies at the end of your right arm with throttle and brake control, making appropriate adjustments for road conditions regardless of how new the tyres might be.

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From the old school of motorcycle riding, honed to perfection by the surviving liter bike riders of the 1970s (2000s). Now just whack the throttle and let the TC do its thing.

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