Fork Oil "Figures" (mL and mM) Question

When I first bought this bike, I immediately put 15k+ on it in under 8 months. I then asked you fine lot for a basic outline on fork oil replacement. That process went well enough (thanks again).

My Actual Question(s) ....

I've got some figures typed into my personal maintenance info/logs that read:

volume: 682ml (R), 304ml (L)
oil level: 82mm (R), 65mm (L)

Firstly, is the volume based on a pump 'n' dump or with the guts removed? <- don't over think this. Pulling forks, popping the caps and dump/swapping oil without full disassembly IS acceptable.

Nextly, I love this trick but need to confirm some information ...

1) take a straw or tube and mark a measured point on it that represents where the oil should level off in our fork tubes.
2) Dip the straw into the (completely vertical) fork so that the markings are flush with the top of the tube.
3) extract excess fork oil and call it good.

So ... if my forks are completely vertical and I'm extracting excess, are those figures correct?

Namely 82mm (R), 65mm (L) <- distance of oil level from top of fork?

I appreciate that a lot of you may want to give advice but in this case, I really just need to know a) if my numbers are correct based on b) just pulling forks and caps (no disassembly) hanging vertically in a bicycle stand.

Thanks in advance.

I am not an expert, but, I believe the important thing is really the volume of air in the uncompressed fork once the caps are sealed back up. Compression of this air contributes to the spring action of the fork, it gives the fork action a degree of rising-rate. So the volume of air determines how much of an air spring you get. Obviously if there is no air the fork will be uncompressible.
Apart from the oil being slanted in the tube when the tube is installed in the yokes, the oil level will be the same as when the tube is vertical, but more difficult to get an accurate measure of course.
Not sure why you have different levels between left and right?

Zitat von Ali-bear im Beitrag #2

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I am not an expert, but, I believe the important thing is really the volume of air in the uncompressed fork once the caps are sealed back up. Compression of this air contributes to the spring action of the fork, it gives the fork action a degree of rising-rate. So the volume of air determines how much of an air spring you get. Obviously if there is no air the fork will be uncompressible.
Apart from the oil being slanted in the tube when the tube is installed in the yokes, the oil level will be the same as when the tube is vertical, but more difficult to get an accurate measure of course.
Not sure why you have different levels between left and right?

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Zitat von Robin Dean im Beitrag #1

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When I first bought this bike, I immediately put 15k+ on it in under 8 months. I then asked you fine lot for a basic outline on fork oil replacement. That process went well enough (thanks again).

My Actual Question(s) ....

I've got some figures typed into my personal maintenance info/logs that read:

volume: 682ml (R), 304ml (L)
oil level: 82mm (R), 65mm (L)

Firstly, is the volume based on a pump 'n' dump or with the guts removed? <- don't over think this. Pulling forks, popping the caps and dump/swapping oil without full disassembly IS acceptable.

Nextly, I love this trick but need to confirm some information ...

1) take a straw or tube and mark a measured point on it that represents where the oil should level off in our fork tubes.
2) Dip the straw into the (completely vertical) fork so that the markings are flush with the top of the tube.
3) extract excess fork oil and call it good.

So ... if my forks are completely vertical and I'm extracting excess, are those figures correct?

Namely 82mm (R), 65mm (L) <- distance of oil level from top of fork?

I appreciate that a lot of you may want to give advice but in this case, I really just need to know a) if my numbers are correct based on b) just pulling forks and caps (no disassembly) hanging vertically in a bicycle stand.

Thanks in advance.

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I did service them before but only once. I'm not going to replace the seals unless I find them leaking, so I won't be completely dismantling.

Just popping the caps, pulling springs (unless that requires complete disassembly) and replacing the oil.

I forget if the springs are freely removable without disassembly. Hmmm ...

The caps have to come off to remove the springs and spacers.