R1200RS + R1250RS Forum
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Sun Oct 08, 2023 11:25 am
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On 24 Sept I left Plymouth by ferry to Santander for 10 days in Spain. Returning home by the same route. Unlike last year, I was blessed with very warm weather, sometimes too warm at 32C (90F).
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We were at sea a little earlier than scheduled as the ferry was not at capacity this late in the season. Due to some timetabling shenanigans last year, the ferry company gave me some vouchers for the posh on board restaurant. 42 euros for the four course dinner with, as a French company, the obligatory cheese course. I would pass on this option without the voucher and just use the cafeteria. I treated myself to a bottle of Pomerol to celebrate the start of the trip.
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After seeing the beautiful red morning sky as shown above, it was time to set of to Ponferrada, across some National Parks. I had plotted a 193 mile route in Google Maps https://goo.gl/maps/KRe26YJBmiCeQPEN6 and transferred it to my Zumo 390. Road numbers are systematic in Spain. Motorways are A1, A2 etc and these are free. Motorways starting AP have tolls. Then there are N roads which are national roads maintained by Madrid. These arew all well maintained. Roads starting with a double letter are maintained by regions and the surface can vary greatly. I really cannot recommend the first mountain section along the AS254. It looked fine on Streetview nut that was in 2011. Other than that, as you can see in the pictures, most of the roads were very well surfaced and I arrived in Ponferrada with a smile on my face. The national parks south of Oviedo in Asturias are really wonderful places. Spam goes here |
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Day 2 in Ponferrada - a loop south https://goo.gl/maps/6ShddbxoJbD8gzLo9 - only 95 miles as I want to do some exploring of Ponferrada on foot later today.
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Today is transit day to Avila, 207 miles https://goo.gl/maps/gtaLehyH4HYj3UY58 with the first part repeating a section the route from yesterday. Then across fast N roads across undulating agricultural land that was in an advanced state of scorching. Many olive trees and very poorly looking vines due to a very dry, hot year. Some olive plantations had burnt and were just black skeletons. It was very hot so I did not stop often so no photos until I approach the walled city of Avila. It's the most complete of this type of Spanish city and a UNESCO Heritage site. Spam goes here |
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Avila was picked due to its proximity to the Sierra de Gredos. A range of mountains 90 mins west of Madrid where the locals go skiing in winter. Today I am doing a circuit which gives me spectacular views of the northern side of the range. Some of this route was inspired by Simon Weir who has several books and magazine articles on touring Europe. https://www.simonweir.co.uk/bookshop
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Final day based at Avila. No route planned but I decided to have a look at the southern side of the Gredos. This meant riding south on the N502 going past the point where I joined it yesterday. That was a very good decision as the road got better and better as you travelled over the only rod that traverses the range in a North-South direction. At Puerto del Pico you cross via a modern, 2 lane road that has obviously been upgraded recently. You can see remnants of the old metalled road where the single lane bridges over gorges remain. You can also see remnants of the cobbled Roman road.
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Transfer day from Avila to Lerma. https://goo.gl/maps/Tmet8DKH2ZurwZTL9 This was a Sunday and seemingly the whole of Madrid had come out into the mountains to enjoy the unseasonably warm weather. Progress was slow at times and I did join the toll free motorway for a section across the flatter lands. The views were very good and there were many bikes out. Just like the UK, they congregate at cafes at the top pf passes etc. Spam goes here |
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I had not planned a route for today as it was my birthday and I had thought about a day off the bike. Not much to do so after dinner yesterday I came up with a plan to ride into the Sierras to the east of Lerma. Maybe getting as far as the Sierra de Cebollera north of Soria.
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Wessie, I agree completely with your assessment of Lerma. I stayed in the parador a few weeks ago and whilst the building is lovely, I also found the staff somewhat disinterested. Lerma itself is not worth a visit for its own sake but just as a stopover, preferably arriving late afternoon. |
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Transit day, Lerma to Aguilar de Campoo. https://goo.gl/maps/6v4WRayQRowHY5Nx8 to stay in a quirky hotel in buildings that are part of the monastery next door. My room was split level with beds above the shower room. Spam goes here |
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Last full day in Spain to travel from Aguilar de Campoo to a hotel near the beach in Santander for a lunchtime ferry home the following day.
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We arrive in Plymouth at 10am, as scheduled. The journey over the Bay of Biscay was one of the calmest I have known. Scorching sunshine from dawn.
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A great holiday. I've done the Picos and Pyrenees in the past, where most UK riders head. I've touched on parts of Asturias before and some other roads near Vega de Pas. Spain has so much more to offer than the those popular areas. I was really taken with the Sierras west and north of Madrid. I had always imagined the middle of Spain to be flat and arid. Not the case, people in Madrid have a magnificent playground on their doorstep and can travel 90 mins in winter to go skiing.
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