in planning » Scotland in Spring/Summer

It's cold and dark - and December - so as well as planning a wee track jaunt in Spain at the end of Feb on the CBR (Almeria/Andalucia with Track Sense), I thought I'd revisit a suggested 4 day route around the very best that Scotland has to offer - just in case anyone is in planning mode:

Day 1. Depending on where you start from (assuming it's THE SOUTH) you'll probably either hit Scotland from the Carlisle side or the Newcastle side. If it's the latter, avoid the A1 and head up the A68 towards Edinburgh (minding the speed cameras). If it's the former, take the superb A7 up to Edinburgh rather than the boring M74 north. Both options take you to the Edinburgh City Bypass (great BMW shop in Dalkeith should you need it! https://www.motorradcentral.com/), then it's about 45 motorway miles following signs for Stirling and the M9 to Junction 10 - then follow the A84, A85 then A82 to Tyndrum. (Please note that, from 2020, the last 15 or so miles of this route to Tyndrum will have new average speed cameras in operation: https://a82-a85road.info/ ) The famous (and very bike friendly) Green Welly stop at Tyndrum is probably the real start to the Western Highlands - the A82 from there will take you across the vastness of Rannoch Moor, through Glencoe (not to be missed under any circumstances - whatever the weather!) and then onto Fort William. If you want a fantastic wee add on, turn right at Glencoe village and take the wonderful winding 15 miles around Loch Leven to get you back on the road to Fort William. This detour also has the added bonus of the fantastic Loch Leven Seafood Cafe (http://www.lochlevenseafoodcafe.co.uk/). Including the add on - that's about 160 miles (from Dalkeith)

Day 2. I’d head north on the A82 (with a wee stop at the Commando Memorial at Spean Bridge), but skip Inverness (just because), cut off at Drumnadrochit instead and take the A833 to Beauly, then through Muir of Ord on to the A835 road to Ullapool. You’re actually then on the NC 500 route so check out their website (https://www.northcoast500.com/) for other ideas. Instead of following the NC 500 (which turns off left at Garve), follow the road to the Braemore Junction (about 12 miles short of Ullapool). If you’re not planning on heading much further north, I’d nip along the last we bit to Ullapool for lunch (http://seafoodshack.co.uk/) and petrol - it’s a lovely wee place. Back to Braemore Junction, take a right (if coming from Ullapool) onto the A832 and - in my opinion - the best 70 or so miles of road in the UK. Past Gruinard (Anthrax) Island and the Isle of Ewe (insert own jokes), through Poolewe (nice gardens: https://www.visitscotland.com/info/see-d...-estate-p255481) and Gairloch, past Loch Maree (fabulous bit of road!) and up to Kinlochewe. When you get to Kinlochewe, it is very important that you then ride (fast) the next 10 miles to Achnasheen, go all around the roundabout and ride (fast) the 10 miles back to Kinlochewe. Take a breath, then take a left onto the (single track) A896 through the spectacular mountains of Torridon, then take a right after Sheildaig and follow the very twisty coast road to Applecross. I’d very definitely recommend staying there - B&Bs and also huts available at the Applecross campsite (https://visitapplecross.com/) as well as an excellent hostel (https://www.hartfieldhouse.org.uk/) and you also get to eat at the Applecross Inn (https://www.applecrossinn.co.uk/) - which everyone should do at least once. A long day (although actually under 270 miles in total), but one you will remember!

Day 3. From Applecross take the Bealach na Ba which rises spectacularly from sea level to over 2000ft in a matter of miles, and take in the viewpoint at the top which gives amazing views over to Skye. Watch the hairpins going down the other side, follow the A896 to Loch Carron then take a right onto the A890 which will take you (via Plockton which is worth a visit) to Kyle of Lochalsh. Once there, it would be rude to miss a circuit of Skye - very beautiful but increasingly very busy in peak months! Cross the bridge, take the A87 to Portree then the A855 (past the famous Old Man of Storr) round the top to Uig, then Carbost (A850), Dunvegan and loop back to Sligachan. Follow the A87 back south, but instead of going back across the Skye Bridge again, follow the signs for the Kylerhea ferry (http://skyeferry.co.uk/) and take the fabulous wee ferry back to the mainland. (The brochs at Glenelg are worth a visit if you're into such things: https://www.secret-scotland.com/place/glenelg-brochs ) The view as you descend to Sheil Bridge is worth a stop-off. You then pass through some amazing scenery in Kintail to take you south on the A87 towards Fort William again. About 260 miles in all.

As an alternative to that option, you could take the A851 from Broadford on Skye to Armadale and then get the ferry to Mallaig. The excellent (EU-funded) Mallaig to Fort William road is a gem - with some great beaches at nearby Morar - or you could cut south at Lochailort on to Ardnamurchan (see below).

Day 4. If you REALLY like single track twisty stuff, you could head from Ft William (via the Corran ferry to Lochaline on the Ardnamurchan peninsula and get the ferry to Fishnish on Mull, do an anticlockwise trip round Mull (actually only about 80 miles) - including Tobermory, Calgary Bay, Fionnphort and onto Craignure - before getting the ferry to Oban.

Alternatively, for an easier day, just head south out of Fort William and follow the wonderful A828 coast road to Connel and onto Oban, before heading further south to Lochgilphead and joining the A83 to Inveraray – an excellent stop off for the night (https://www.thegeorgehotel.co.uk/). An easy 110 miles from Fort William or around 205 riding miles if taking the Mull option.

Day 5. A83 to Tarbet (on Loch Lomond), A82 south, home…

Advice?
Visit Scotland at the end of May or the start of June - vast hours of daylight, fewer tourists outside of the summer hols and fewer midges than in high summer.
Avoid travelling at dusk if possible - lots of deer around just as its getting dark - and you don't want to connect with any.
Single track roads require a lot of concentration and will ALWAYS take longer than expected. Look at the road (lots!) or stop and look at the scenery - trying to do both together will end in tears.
Apart from the just-turn-up Kylerhea ferry, book ferries (https://www.calmac.co.uk/) in advance if you can - especially in summer. Even bigger ferries (Craignure to Oban) have limited bike places.
Concerns about lack of fuel stops in remote areas are a myth - there are plenty (and range isn't an issue on BMWs!), but try and support locally run fuel stations (such as Applecross) if you can.
Hope this is of some help to someone! Feel free to ask any questions.....